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This section provides procedures for the checkout and replace-
ment of the various parts used within the fryer. Before replac-
ing any parts, refer to the Troubleshooting section. It will aid
you in determining the cause of the malfunction.
This section is arranged in groupings of the components that
work together within the fryer. The general groups are listed
below.
Removing the Control Panel
Probe
Electrical Components
Control Board
Pressure System
1. You may want to use a multime
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This high temperature control is a manual reset control which senses the temperature of the shortening. If the shortening temperature exceeds 420°F (215OC), this control switch will open and shut off the heat to the cookpot. When the temperature of the shortening drops to a safe operation limit, the control must be manually reset. The reset button is located above the filter knob in the front of the cooker. This will allow heat to be supplied to the cookpot. Before replacing a high tempe
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Remove electrical power supplied to the fryer by unplugging the unit, or by turning off the wall circuit breaker or electrical shock could result. 1. If the tube is broken or cracked, the control will open, shut- ting off electrical power. The control cannot be reset. 2. Drain shortening from the cookpot and discard. A substance in the tube could contaminate the shortening. 3. Remove control panel. 4. Loosen small inside screw nut on capillary tube. 5. Remove capillary bulb from bulb ho
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Be sure capillary bulb of high limit is positioned as not to interfere with carrier or when cleaning the cookpot wall, or damage to capillary tube could result. 15. With excess capillary line pulled out, tighten smaller nut. 16. Replace front panel. 17. Refill with shortening. There are two fuse holders on each model of the electric fryers. There are no fuse holder assemblies for the gas models other than that at the main power source. Remove electrical power supplied to the fryer by u
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The Power/Pump Switch is a three way rocker switch with a center “OFF“ position. With the switch in the POWER position the fryer wiil operate. With the switch in the PUMP position the filter pump will operate, but the heating unit will not. 1. Remove Control Panel. Remove electrical power suppled to the fryer by unplug- ging the unit, or turning off the wall circuit breaker or electrical shock could result. 2. “OFF” Position - should be open circuit anywhere on the switch. 3. “Power”
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a primary The electric fryer requires two switching contactors: contactor and a heat contactor. The primary contactor energizes (contacts close) any time the Power/Pump Switch is in the “Power” position and the temperature of the pot is below 420°F (215OC). The hi limit will cut the power at the primary contactor if temperatures in the cookpot exceed 420° F (215O 6). The primary contactor supplies power to one side of the heat contactors. The heat contactor is controlled by the computer
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The following checks, are performed with the wall circuit breaker on, and the Power/Pump Switch in the ower” position. Extreme caution should be taken. ake connections before applying power, take reading, and remove power by unplugging the power cord, or by turning off the wall circuit breaker, before remov- ing meter leads or electrical shock could result. ith power re-applied and in a heat-up mode, check the 5. power going to both contactor coils. This is to be sure power is going to
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Each electric fryer uses two heating elements. Heating elements are available for 208 or 220/240,380 and 415 voltage. Check the data plate on the right side panel of unit to determine the correct voltage. If the shortening’s temperature recovery is very slow, or at a slower rate than required, this may indicate defective heating element(s). A multimeter will quickly indicate if the elements are shorted or open. 1. Remove electrical power supplied to the fryer. Remove electrical power su
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1. Drain the shortening. 2. Remove the high limit bulb holder from the heating element. 3. Remove the Control Panel. 4. Disconnect the heating element wires from the contactors. 5. Loosen the screws on the element spreaders. 6. Slide the element spreaders to the back of the heating elements. 7. Remove the brass nuts and washers which secure the ends of the elements through the cookpot. 8. Remove the heating elements from the cookpot as a group by lifting the far end and sliding them u
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All fryers are equipped with a drain valve micro-switch that prevents heat from coming on when the drain valve is open. With the drain valve open, the switch prevents power from being applied to the coil of the primary and heat contactors, and the solenoid coil. Remove electrical power supplied to the fryer by unplugging the unit, or turning off the wall circuit breaker or electrical shock could result. 1. The following check should be made to determine if the Drain Switch is defective.
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Henny Penny Model 580 5-11. TEMPERATURE PROBE 3. Remove the Control Board. REPLACEMENT (Continued) 4. Remove probe connections from PC board. 5. Using a ½” wrench, remove the nut on the compression fitting. 6. Remove the probe from the cookpot. 7. Place the nut and new ferrule on the new probe and insert the probe into th
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Henny Penny Model 580 5-12. COMPLETE CONTROL Should the Control Panel become inoperative, follow these PANEL HENNY PENNY instructions for replacing the board. 1. Remove electrical power supplied to the fryer. Place the Power/Pump Switch in the "OFF" position, and unplug the power cord and/ or turn the wall circuit breaker off or electrical shock could result. 2. Remove the tw
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Henny Penny Model 580 5-14. PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE The following is a routine maintenance schedule for the Lid: Every 90 days • Clean and reverse lid gasket Yearly Cleaning and Inspection • Remove and clean Safety Relief Valve • Check Lid Gasket for splitting and tears - replace if necessary • Check Pressure Pads for wear - rotate if necessary • Che
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Check the gasket for any tears or nicks. If the gasket is damaged it needs to be replaced. Be careful that the lid doesn’t fall down while it is in the upright position, or serious injury could result. 3. Clean the gasket and gasket seat with hot water. 4. Rotate the gasket with the opposite side facing out. Begin the installation by installing the four corners of the lid gasket, and smoothing the gasket into place from the corners. , The Lid Counterweight in the back of the fryer balan
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6. Using a l/Z” wrench, tighten the nut (already threaded on the cable) against the weight securing the cable into the weight. ull cable over pulley and down behind the weight. .\ \ \., “‘@l$ ,” $,# &i,! \.,“,, 8. Thread the other end of the cable through a 5/16” nut on ,; ‘, the underside of the bracket. 9. Tighten the cable up by screwing the cable through the nut, until the weight becomes level. - The safety cable should now have some slack in it, with the weight level. 10.
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Henny Penny Model 580 5-17. PRESSURE PAD The pressure pads are plastic strips that the lid cam presses against to seal the lid. 1. Raise the lid. 2. Remove the four screws securing the lid cover and remove cover. 3. Push the lid cam back, off of the pressure pads. 4. Using an Allen wrench, remove large bolt securing the pad. 5. Using a Phillips head screw driver, remove the small screw securin
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Henny Penny Model 580 5-18. LID ADJUSTMENT If steam leaks out from around the lid gasket, the pressure pads could be worn or broken. If the pressure pad is worn, but not broken, it can be reversed 180 degrees, and the other end of the pad used. See Section 5-17. Other problems could cause the steam to leak, such as a cracked or worn gasket, or gasket not installed properly. Be certain leaking
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ith the carrier and racks installed on the lid, the lid should down, in contact with the pot rim, when the lid is lowered. The user will then be able to lock the lid in place. If the lid has a tendency to rise up before getting t the magnet plate probably needs adjusting the six nuts securing the back shroud and remove emove back shroud. 2. Loosen the bottom nut under the plate and unscrew both nuts a couple turns, then lower the lid again to see if the lid stays down. If not, repeat p
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rior to servicing the solenoid valve, it is necessary to remove the side panel on the right side of the unit. 1. Remove the “tru-arc” retaining clip on top of the coil housing. 2. Remove the cover. 3. If only the coil is to be replaced, disconnect the two coil wires at the wire nuts in the coil housing. insert new coil, and connect the wires at the wire nuts. Assemble in reverse order of disassembly. The wires may be connected in any order. 4. Loosen the screws on the strain relief and
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Henny Penny Model 580 5-20. SOLENOID VALVE 7. With the bonnet assembly and core-disc assembly Replacement (Continued) removed, disconnect the two nut fittings. One connects the solenoid valve to the dead weight system; the other is attached to the condensation tank. 8. Remove the elbows from the solenoid valve. 9. Remove the two adapter screws which attach the pipe
