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M M M Ma a a ay y y yt t t ta a a ag g g g I I I Ic c c ce e e e2 2 2 2O O O O F F F Fr r r re e e en n n nc c c ch h h h D D D Do o o oo o o or r r r R R R Re e e ef f f fr r r ri i i ig g g ge e e er r r ra a a at t t to o o or r r r////F F F Fr r r re e e ee e e ez z z ze e e er r r r M M M Mo o o od d d de e e el l l l
M M M MF F F FI I I I2 2 2 25 5 5 56 6 6 68 8 8 8A A A AE E E EW W W W
H H H HV V V V C C C Co o o on n n nt t t tr r r ro o o ol l l l B B B Bo o
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I I I Im m m mp p p po o o or r r rt t t ta a a an n n nt t t t S S S Sa a a af f f fe e e et t t ty y y y R R R Re e e em m m mi i i in n n nd d d de e e er r r rs s s s a a a an n n nd d d d L L L Le e e eg g g ga a a al l l l S S S St t t tu u u uf f f ff f f f – – – – D D D Do o o on n n n’’’’t t t t S S S Sk k k ki i i ip p p p:::: Alas, with the litigious nature of this society, the following disclaimers and safety information are required and by using any of th
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O O O Ov v v ve e e er r r rv v v vi i i ie e e ew w w w:::: Your job is to carefully remove 2 failed components from the main High Voltage (HV) Control Board– specifically 2 electrolytic capacitors (caps) - from an electronic Printed Circuit Board (PCB). You will need to purchase replacement parts for this repair. Additionally, you will need equipment that is common to any electronics hobbyist’s toolkit to de-solder defective parts and solder in new replacement parts. In orde
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P P P Pa a a ar r r rt t t ts s s s a a a an n n nd d d d S S S Su u u up p p pp p p pl l l li i i ie e e es s s s L L L Li i i is s s st t t t Parts needed: (1) 1000uF radial lead electrolytic cap, Radio Shack P/N 272-1032 $1.59 (1) 470uF radial lead electrolytic cap, Radio Shack P/N 272-1030 $1.29 Total $2.89 + tax If you don’t have soldering and de-soldering tools you’ll need these: (1) de-soldering bulb, Radio Shack P/N 64-2086 $3.99 (1) pencil tip soldering iron, R
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S S S St t t te e e ep p p p- - - -B B B By y y y- - - -S S S St t t te e e ep p p p p p p pr r r ro o o oc c c ce e e ed d d du u u ur r r re e e es s s s:::: S S S St t t to o o op p p p t t t th h h he e e e f f f fl l l la a a ap p p pp p p pi i i in n n ng g g g ! !! !! !! !! !! ! These steps are optional if you want to stop the flapping noise while you go get the parts, presuming the compressor still runs and keeps the fridge cold. If the fridge no longer stays
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8. Have your helper hold the frame while you unplug the small wire connector (Fig 2) from the PCB. This will stop the power from going to the door flapper and ice dispenser. View looking down from the top of the ice/water dispenser Power to flapper door © 2007 Stephen Beck and water dispenser Fig. 2 9. Re-assemble the front door frame by hooking it to the top and gently pressing it back into place. 10. Replace the 2 screws to keep it from popping off. 11. Replace the drip tray
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F F F Fi i i ix x x xi i i in n n ng g g g t t t th h h he e e e H H H HV V V V C C C Co o o on n n nt t t tr r r ro o o ol l l l B B B Bo o o oa a a ar r r rd d d d.... R R R Re e e em m m mo o o ov v v ve e e e t t t th h h he e e e P P P PC C C CB B B B f f f fr r r ro o o om m m m t t t th h h he e e e f f f fr r r ri i i id d d dg g g ge e e e:::: 1. Start by rolling out your fridge from where it’s stashed. You’ll need to access the back of the fridge
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6. Understand the plastic cover is held in place by (2) unmovable tabs on the left (think of this as the hinge side of a door) that will break if you try to move them, and a movable tab on the right (think of it as the door latch) that can be pulled forward. See Fig 5: Fig. 5 © 2007 Stephen Beck 7. Remove the clear plastic door by gently prying the right side loose, and swinging it out. Pull the door to the right releasing the tabs on the left from their holes. 8. You should now
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10. Understand there are 4 wire connectors plugged into the circuit board that will need to be removed. They are all removed in the same manner. You will want to either mark or draw a picture as to which connector comes from what plug to make re-assembly easier. The wires are just the right lengths and naturally fit to the proper connectors if you want to skip the pictures/labels. See Fig 7: Behind the label Fig. 7 © 2007 Stephen Beck 11. GENTLY depress the top of the lever in
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14. Using your flat blade screwdriver, push the small fingers on one of the tabs away from the PCB and using nd your finger, or the 2 flat blade screwdriver, GENTLY pry the side of the PCB toward you enough to clear the fingers on the tab. (Fig 10) © 2007 Stephen Beck Fig. 10 nd 15. Repeat the last step for the 2 tab holding the PCB in place 16. GENTLY and evenly pull the left hand side of the PCB towards you and out of the clip, then slide it out from the slot on the right hand si
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R R R Re e e ep p p pl l l la a a ac c c ce e e e t t t th h h he e e e C C C Ca a a ap p p ps s s s:::: 1. Take a close look at the caps. Mine showed a domed top which can be seen from the side view of the board. (Fig 12) Yours may or may not look like this, but you can see which caps you’ll need to replace in this figure. © 2007 Stephen Beck Failed Caps Domed tops Good Cap Flat top Fig. 12 2. Turn the board over and locate the solder connections to the 2 faile
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3. This is where you’ll need to get help from a friend if you don’t know how to solder. Read this description fully before starting. 4. Using your soldering iron, and de-soldering bulb for suction, one cap at a time, melt each connection, squeeze the bulb, and place it right on the molten solder and quickly un-squeeze the bulb while keeping it in place. This acts like a mini vacuum cleaner and removes the solder from the connection. You may have to do this a couple times to get as m
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10. A view of the caps inserted in the PCB. Note that the negative or “minus” side of the caps and their “dashed” markings are facing away from you. Also note the “plus” sign written on the PCB. (Fig 16) Minus signs on caps Plus signs on PCB Fig. 16 © 2007 Stephen Beck 11. Solder the 4 wire leads on the same side of the PCB you de-soldered. This is a critical step, so if you’re not sure on how to solder, find someone who does. A bad solder joint here can make the connection
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13. Clean the PCB with the Q-Tips and rubbing alcohol. This removes the residue that came out of the solder when you heated it. Check to be sure that you don’t have any solder blobs bridging the gap between the brown sections of the board. If you do, re-melt the solder and remove the bridge using the de-soldering bulb. You should be able to see a clear green line between the positive and negative sides of each cap you soldered. (Fig 18) © 2007 Stephen Beck Check for, and remove s
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R R R Re e e e- - - -i i i in n n ns s s st t t ta a a al l l ll l l l t t t th h h he e e e P P P PC C C CB B B B:::: 1. Installation is the reverse order of removal 2. Tuck the right hand side of the PCB (the one you marked, right ?) into the slot on the right hand side of the white plastic tub. (Fig 20) Fig. 20 © 2007 Stephen Beck 3. GENTLY press the left side of the PCB into the top and bottom clips till they snap closed, securing the PCB in place. (Figs. 21 & 22)
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5. GENTLY place the (2) small tabs on the clear plastic cover into the slots on the left hand side of the opening for the PCB (Fig 24) Fig. 24 © 2007 Stephen Beck 6. GENTLY close the clear plastic cover, engaging the latch on the right hand side. 7. You are now ready to test the fridge. (Yay again !) ☺ © 2007 by Stephen Beck V1.0 Page 16 of 19 Use at your Own Risk
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T T T Te e e es s s st t t ti i i in n n ng g g g t t t th h h he e e e F F F Fr r r ri i i id d d dg g g ge e e e ( ( ( (C C C CA A A AU U U UT T T TI I I IO O O ON N N N R R R RE E E EQ Q Q QU U U UI I I IR R R RE E E ED D D D) ) ) ):::: 1. Since this guide was written for an audience that might have minimal tools as opposed to a host of bench test equipment, “testing the fridge” entails essentially “plugging it in”. THIS IS THE MOST DANGEROUS STEP IN THE PROCESS as I can’
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O O O Op p p pt t t ti i i io o o on n n na a a al l l l:::: P P P Pl l l lu u u ug g g g t t t th h h he e e e f f f fl l l la a a ap p p pp p p pe e e er r r r d d d do o o oo o o or r r r b b b ba a a ac c c ck k k k i i i in n n n:::: 1. Unplug the fridge. 2. Remove the drip tray from the bottom of the ice/water dispenser recess on the front left door if needed. This exposes (2) ¼” screws (Fig. 25) Fig. 25 © 2007 Stephen Beck 3. Use the ¼” nut driver (
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7. Have your helper hold the frame while you plug the small wire connector back into the PCB. (Fig 26) View looking down from the top of the ice/water dispenser Power to flapper door © 2007 Stephen Beck and water dispenser Fig. 26 8. Re-assemble the front door frame by hooking it to the top and gently pressing it back into place. 9. Replace the 2 screws. 10. Replace the drip tray. 11. Plug the fridge back in. 12. Check the operation of the water dispenser and the ice dispenser
