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™
WARRANTY.....Top Flite Models guarantees this kit to be free of defects in both
material and workmanship at the date of purchase. This warranty does not cover any component parts
damaged by use or modification. In no case shall Top Flite‘s liability exceed the original cost of the
purchased kit. Further, Top Flite reserves the right to change or modify this warranty without notice.
In that Top Flite has no control over the final assembly or material used for final assembly, no
Top Flite M
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Mount the fin and stab ......................................36 TABLE OF CONTENTS PROTECT YOUR MODEL, Finish framing the fuselage...............................37 AND BUILDING SEQUENCE Mount the tail wheel assembly..........................38 YOURSELF & OTHERS Prepare the fuse for sheeting ...........................39 FOLLOW THIS IMPORTANT INTRODUCTION .................................................3 Sheet the bottom of the fuse.............................40 PRECAUTIONS......................
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model doesn’t have a very big wingspan.” But don’t PRECAUTIONS Your Top Flite Gold Edition Spitfire Mk IX is worry. Once you join the tail surfaces to the fuse, add intended for scale and general sport flying the cowl and spinner, then glue the wing tips to the 1. You must build the plane according to the plan including mild aerobatics such as loops, stall wing and put it all together, your enthusiasm will soar and instructions. Do not alter or modify the turns, rolls, etc. Its structure is desi
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larger prop at lower RPM. This is often desirable for RETRACTABLE LANDING GEAR FLAPS scale realism. Many .61 cu. in. [10.0cc] 2-stroke engines produce about as much horsepower as the You may build your Spitfire either with fixed or Your Spitfire is designed to incorporate scale split popular .75 [12.0cc] 2-stroke engines and will fly the retractable landing gear. Of course, fixed landing flaps; however, flaps are optional and not Spitfire extremely well. If you use a .61 [10.0cc] 2- gear will be
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instrument panel, seat and armor back rest! You Sportsman and Expert classes in Sport Scale. Fun If you are not too concerned with an exact scale don’t install the cockpit kit until you are near the Scale and Sport Scale have the same flight trim scheme you can make a variation of the one end of construction and no modifications to the requirements where you must perform ten on the box, or design your own. If you are going to fuselage are required to install it. Instructions for maneuvers of whi
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EASY-TOUCH BAR SANDER 3/32" [2.4mm] Wheel Collar for tailwheel Denatured or Isopropyl Alcohol (to clean up (GPMQ4302) excess epoxy) 12 oz. [360cc] Fuel Tank (GPMQ4105) Masking Tape (TOPR8018, 8014, 8012) 24" [610mm] Medium Silicone Fuel Tubing Wax Paper or Plan Protector (GPMR6167) (GPMQ4131) #11 Blades (HCAR0311, 100 qty.) Fuel Filler Valve (GPMQ4160) Single-Edge Razor Blades (HCAR0312, 100 qty.) 3-1/2" [89mm] Spinner, see Scale propeller and spinner section on page 53 T-Pins small (HCAR5100),
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always the top main spar even if the wing is IMPORTANT BUILDING NOTES METRIC CONVERSION upside down when you are working on it. 1" = 25.4mm (conversion factor) Similarly, move the former up means move the There are two types of screws used in this kit. former toward the top of the fuselage even if the 1/64" = .4mm 1" = 25.4mm fuselage is upside down when you are working Sheet metal screws are designated by a 1/32" = .8mm 2" = 50.8mm on it. number and a length. 1/16" = 1.6mm 3" = 76.2mm 3/32"
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DIE-CUT PATTERNS - 8 -
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DIE-CUT PATTERNS - 9 -
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BUILD THE TAIL SURFACES BUILD THE STAB 1. Use your own method or the Hot Tip that follows to glue two 1/16" x 3" x 30" [1.6 x 76 x 762mm] balsa sheets together to make a 6" x 30" [152 x 762mm] sheet for the top and bottom stab skins. B. Tightly tape the sheets together with masking tape. Top Flite selects balsa that is intended for sheeting, though occasionally a few of these sheets may have a small nick or split near the ends. If your kit contains a few of these sheets, arrange them and glue t
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2. While you’re making skins, make a 6" x 15" 8. Use the stab skin template on the plan to [152 x 381mm] fin skin by cutting a 1/16" x 3" x make the top and bottom stab skin from the 1/16" 30" [1.6 x 76 x 762mm] balsa sheet in half and [1.6mm] sheets you glued together earlier. gluing the two pieces together. Set the skins aside for now. 9. Trim the LE of one of the stab skins so it accurately fits the stab leading edges. Slightly bevel the LE of the skin to match the angle at which it contacts
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BUILD THE ELEVATORS Note: The die-cut elevator bases included in the kit have one large lightening hole instead of the two smaller ones shown in the instruction manual photos. This is to reduce the weight in the tail. Start with the left elevator. ❏❏ 1. Position one of the die-cut 3/32" [2.4mm] ❏❏ 5. Insert a T-pin through the center of the balsa elevator bases over the elevator plan and elevator LE near the tip and near the root. Place a lightly mark the location of the elevator ribs on 14. Tr
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12. Round the leading edge of the stab as shown on the cross section of the plan, blending it to the stab tips. CUT HINGE SLOT 13. Carefully break both elevators free from the WITH HOBBY KNIFE stab. Notice which elevator matches which side of AND #11 BLADE the stab. Remove any glue bumps left from the CA ❏❏ 9. Use a razor plane and your bar sander you used to tack glue the elevators to the stab. 14. Mark the location of the hinge slots on the with 80-grit sandpaper to sand the elevator and eleva
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leading edges. Cut a slot in the leading edge of both elevators to accommodate the joiner wire. Hint: Use a 5/32" [4mm] brass tube sharpened at one end to cut the slots. 21. Bevel the leading edges of the elevators to DRILL A 3/32" HOLE a “V” as shown on the cross section of the plan. 1/2" DEEP, IN CENTER Use the centerline on the elevator leading edges OF HINGE SLOT as a guide. Test fit the elevators to the stab with 17. Drill a 3/32" [2.40mm] hole, 1/2" [13mm] the joiner wire and hinges. If ne
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die-cut 1/4" [6.4mm] balsa fin TE on the fin ribs 3. See the following photo and temporarily pin 12. If you haven’t already done so, cut the other and glue it in position. the remainder of the 1/4" x 1/2" [6.4 x 12.7mm] fin skin. Glue the fin skin to the right side of the fin balsa stick you used for the stab hinge blocks (it so the sheeting extends 1/4" [6mm] below V1. 7. Cut the fin skin for the left side of the fin from should be about 6" [150mm] long) to your building the 1/16" x 6" x 15" [1
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the rudder tip block with the tip of the fin and hold PREPARATIONS 5. Cut the rudder ribs from two 3/32" x 3/8" x it in place with a T-pin. Sand the tip block to match 24" [2.4 x 9.5 x 610mm] balsa sticks and one 3/32" the fin. Remove the T-pin and round the rudder tip Perform steps 1, 2 and 3 only if you are x 1/2" x 12" [2.4 x 12.7 x 305mm] balsa stick (for block to match the plan. building flaps. the bottom two rudder ribs on each side) and glue them to the rudder base. 12. Notch the right s
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Perform step 5 only if you are building fixed landing gear (a scale warbird without retracts? Won’t you reconsider?). 2. Mark rib 4 at the center of the leading edge. Lay a straightedge on the rib across the mark you made and the trailing edge of the rib where it comes to a point. Draw a short line along the ❏❏ 2. Position a 1/4" x 3/8" x 24" [6.4 x 9.5 x straightedge from the trailing edge of the rib to the 610mm] basswood bottom main spar over its notch for the inner trailing edge. This is wh
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set rib 4 at the correct angle. Make sure the ❏❏ 10. Test-fit, then glue the precut 1/16" notches in the ribs for the landing gear rails allow [1.6mm] shear webs to the spars where shown on the rails to go in at an angle as indicated on the the plan. plan. Enlarge the notches if necessary. Note: The spars are slightly tilted to match the airfoil of the wing so the shear webs do not fully contact them. This presents no problems because we will remind you to reinforce the glue joints before you s
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die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] plywood servo mount plate the line you marked with a 1/8" [3.2mm] space BUILD THE CENTER SECTION base between the #2 ribs. The holes in the dowel between them (to accommodate center rib 1). plates are closest to the bottom of the wing. 1. Align the center section wing plan over your 10. Cut a 10" [250mm] center leading edge building board and cover it with waxed paper. 5. Add both die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] balsa center from the 36" [914mm] long shaped balsa leading TE’s and the
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the forward joiners. If necessary, adjust the 16. Take the center section off of your 20. Position the servo mount plate on the servo notches in the ribs or remove excess glue so the building board. plate base (in the center section of the wing) so joiners fit well. the ball on the servo arm aligns with the holes in both #2 ribs (where the flap pushrod will come Perform steps 17 through 21 only if you are through). Drill 1/16" [1.60mm] holes at the punch Each of the next three steps requires 30-
